A snow blower that won't start in January is useless. The secret to a reliable snow blower is maintenance — both before the season starts and before you put it away for the summer. Here's the complete guide.
Pre-Season Preparation (Before the First Snow)
1. Change the Oil
Snow blower engines work hard in cold conditions. Old oil breaks down and loses its lubricating properties. Change the oil before the season starts:
- Drain the old oil while the engine is warm (run it for 5 minutes first)
- Refill with the oil specified in your manual — typically 5W-30 for winter use (thinner oil flows better in cold weather)
- Check the oil level before each use
2. Replace the Spark Plug
A fouled spark plug is the #1 reason a snow blower won't start. Replace it before the season:
- Remove the old plug and check the gap (typically 0.030")
- Install a new plug — it's a $5 part that prevents most starting problems
- If you didn't replace it last season, replace it now
3. Check the Fuel
Snow blowers sit unused for 8–9 months. If you didn't use fuel stabilizer last spring, the fuel is stale. Drain the old fuel and fill with fresh gas.
If you used stabilizer, the fuel may still be good — smell it. If it smells sour or like varnish, drain it.
4. Inspect the Belts
Snow blowers have two belts: the drive belt (moves the wheels) and the auger belt (spins the auger). Inspect both for cracks, glazing, or wear. A worn belt slips and reduces performance. Replace both if they show any damage.
5. Check the Auger and Shear Pins
The auger is connected to the shaft with shear pins — designed to break if the auger hits a rock or obstruction, protecting the engine and gearbox from damage. Check that all shear pins are intact. If any are broken, replace them with the correct shear pins for your model — never use regular bolts. A regular bolt won't break when it should, and you'll destroy the gearbox.
6. Lubricate the Auger Shaft
Remove the shear pins and slide the auger off the shaft. Clean the shaft and apply grease. Reinstall the auger and pins. This prevents the auger from rusting to the shaft — a common problem that causes shear pin breakage.
7. Check the Skid Shoes and Scraper Bar
The skid shoes (metal plates on the sides of the auger housing) and the scraper bar (the metal strip across the bottom) wear down over time. If they're worn to the point that the auger housing is contacting the pavement, replace them. Running the auger on pavement damages the housing.
During the Season
After Each Use
- Clear snow and ice from the auger, chute, and impeller. Ice buildup reduces throwing distance and can jam the auger.
- Wipe down the auger housing to prevent rust. A light coat of WD-40 helps.
Every 5 Hours of Use
- Check the shear pins — replace any that are broken
- Clear the chute of any packed snow or ice
- Check the oil level
When the Fuel Gets Low
Don't run out of fuel in the middle of a storm. Keep a 5-gallon can of fresh fuel with stabilizer in the garage. Snow blowers use more fuel than you'd expect — a two-stage blower can use a gallon per hour.
End-of-Season Storage (Summerizing)
1. Add Fuel Stabilizer or Drain the Fuel
Option A (Recommended): Add fuel stabilizer to a full tank and run the engine for 10 minutes so treated fuel flows through the carburetor.
Option B: Run the engine until it's out of fuel, then drain the carburetor bowl.
Either way, don't leave untreated fuel in the carburetor for 8 months — it will varnish and clog the jets.
2. Fog the Engine
Remove the spark plug and spray fogging oil into the cylinder. Pull the starter cord slowly to distribute the oil. This prevents the cylinder from rusting during the long storage period. Reinstall the plug.
3. Change the Oil
Change the oil before storage so old, contaminated oil doesn't sit in the crankcase all summer.
4. Remove and Charge the Battery (Electric Start Models)
Disconnect the battery and store it indoors. Put it on a trickle charger or check it monthly.
5. Lubricate Everything
Grease all fittings, oil the auger shaft, and lubricate the chute gears. This prevents parts from seizing during the long storage period.
6. Store in a Dry Location
Store the snow blower in a dry shed or garage. If it must stay outside, use a fitted cover — not a tarp, which traps moisture.
Common Snow Blower Problems
Won't start: Check the fuel (is it fresh?), the spark plug (is it fouled?), and the choke (is it fully closed for a cold start?).
Auger won't turn: Check the shear pins — if they're broken, the auger won't spin even though the engine runs. Also check the auger belt.
Won't throw snow far: Check for ice buildup in the chute, a worn auger belt, or a worn impeller. Also check the engine RPM — if it's running slow, the impeller can't throw snow effectively.
Wheels won't drive: Check the drive belt and the friction wheel (a rubber disc that wears out and needs periodic replacement).
The Bottom Line
Snow blower maintenance is seasonal: prepare before winter (oil, plug, fuel, belts, shear pins), maintain during the season (clear ice, check pins), and summerize before storage (stabilizer, fog, oil, battery). Do all three and your snow blower will start on the first pull every storm.